TN Racing DIB Conversion

04/16/2015 at 5:56 pm

It looks like TN is ready to sell the 3rd version of their DIB conversion. A short manual can be found here: http://ameblo.jp/tnracing-drift/entry-12014641317.html

TN DIB Main Deck

TN Racing DIB Conversion v3.0

03/03/2015 at 12:00 pm

Looks like TN Racing is planning to launch their v3.0 DIB conversion sometime in April for under $200. They’re only making a hundred so if you want one you should grab one quick.

I passed on the DIB monitor conversion kit but I’m pretty sure I’ll be getting the v3.

TN Racing DIB v3.0

DIB Update

02/12/2015 at 1:51 am

The DIB was running well at Project G so I decided to tinker around with it a little bit. The the in lift (inside wheel shifts to positive camber and raises the car up) bothered me so I revised the front end a little bit. I used Wrap-Up Next upper arms to improve strength and to link the two sides. Currently damper less but I have no pitch in the front now, and the dampers will be used to control roll. Even with my revised included angle and increase camber shift from lock to lock, I get close to no in lift now.

Full Lock

I played around with the rear end as well, and settled on a swing axle type suspension setup. I wanted the car to slide a little bit more horizontally, and be able to full throttle while sideways.Swing Axle

Trail

01/13/2015 at 1:08 pm

I see people throw around the words KPI and scrub when they talk about knuckles, but trail tends to get left out.

D-Like knuckles with trail

D-Like knuckles with trail

Front Lower Suspension Geometry

12/01/2014 at 1:07 pm

I saw a few TN drivers trying it out so I gave it a try. I reused the stock 3.5 RR block that I had lying around and put it in place of the stock FR block. It wasn’t a huge difference but I think it helped the fronts trace the ground more?

Image borrowed from Koma's blog

Image borrowed from Koma’s blog

Seesaw Stays

10/14/2014 at 11:04 am

I’ve been running the seesaw stays from TN Racing for a while now. They’re a bit pricey, but you can always find something similar such as TA05 seesaw stays.

TN Racing has a good blog post about it here. I won’t be including any pictures since his post has good ones you should reference.

High Upper

09/02/2014 at 2:49 pm

So after throwing in the new Riku knuckles, I noticed the front end not gripping as well anymore. Since the car was hard to drive and I already had  TN upper arm pins, I wen’t ahead and mounted those onto my shock tower.

High Upper

H2 Riku Knuckles

08/18/2014 at 4:02 pm

I’ve had my M’s knuckles for a few weeks now but I decided to switch over to TN Racing’s H2 Riku knuckles. They’re a bit pricey, but the knuckles come with stuff such as KPI and trail set to Riku’s specifications so I was curious to see how they feel.

Riku Knuckles

Toe Zero + H2 Riku Rear Hub

08/11/2014 at 4:53 pm

Finally got stuff ready to get my rear toe to 0.  You’ll need DRB-31RR and DRB-31RF. Possibly shorter dogbones as well, since the toe blocks are a little bit more narrow compared to the stock 3.5. I went with Square’s 40mm, and changed out my rear hubs as well.

Toe 0

Rear Roll Center

07/31/2014 at 1:02 pm

In my opinion, understanding roll center and using it for tuning is very important. It’s also one of the fundamentals of H2 Riku suspension.

For those of you that mess around with actual cars, the general rule of thumb is to keep the roll center close to the car’s center of weight to reduce roll. Hence the reason why we like to keep suspension links parallel with the ground. But because RCs are so light and use low grip tires this usually isn’t the case. Here’s what my rear end looks like. This is before I threw in adjustable rear hubs so my roll center is a little bit lower currently compared to this picture.

DIB Roll Center

Rear end is all stock!